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This historic book may have numerous typos, missing text or index. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. 1899. Not illustrated. Excerpt: ... AMONG the many climbers who were staying at Zermatt in the summer of 1891, was Sir Martin Conway--one of the most distinguished of living mountaineers--to whom I owe a special debt of gratitude, both for the many times he has permitted me to share his climbs and for all he has done to improve my position in life. He had determined to undertake an expedition to the Himalayas, and came to Zermatt on purpose to find a suitable guide. My brother Louis recommended me and gave for reference my patron, Mr. Oscar Eckenstein. The latter, who had always shown me the most marked kindness, spoke for me, mentioning, in particular, the good work I had done for him. It grieved me, however, to think of leaving my esteemed employer who had been the first to give me a start in my profession. Nevertheless, the contract was drawn up and Sir Martin Conway returned to London where, some days after, Mr. Eckenstein joined him. In about a fortnight, my new patron's formal agreement to the contract arrived. At the same time, came the news that another gentleman, Lieutenant the Honourable C. G. Bruce, of the 1st Battalion, 5th Gurkhas, had asked to be allowed to make one of our party. It being my custom to test the powers of any climber to whom I was going to act as guide, this led to Mr. Bruce's coming to Zermatt the following winter, for a month. This was long enough for me to recognise him as a first.rate mountaineer as well as a good and kind-hearted man. In the beginning of January, 1892,I started for London. Here all the necessary preparations for our journey--which was to occupy a year--had to be made. This was a work of some weeks, since provisions for five persons had to be prepared for the whole period of our proposed absence. When all was in readiness, I employed the time I had...
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