Excerpt from The Floral World and Garden Guide, Vol. 7
Culture of Hoya. - The native climate of the Hoya indicates the necessity of warmth, and it is only in the stove or warm greenhouse that it can ever be bloomed satisfactorily. But it is important to state at the outset that what is known among gardeners as a "roasting" temperature, is not only not needful, but is positively injurious. In a house with caladiums, begonias, marantas, and crotons, the Hoya will be at home, and there it may have the coolest end, and should certainly be so placed as to enjoy plenty of sun. A rich soil is hurtful, nevertheless it is necessary to allow plenty of root room. The soil for Hoyas should consist of a rough mixture of poor peat, silky loam, and small pieces of broken brick or tile, and siftings of the size of walnuts from old mortar or plaster. Exact proportions in composts are of far less consequence than usually represented; but to prevent mistakes by beginners it will be a good rule to use the ingredients in these proportions: - loam, 2; peat, 2; broken bricks. 1; lime rubbish, 1. This mixture ought when used to be sufficiently moist to render watering unnecessary for at least a week after potting. As peat is often dust dry in the potting shed, it will be well to moisten sufficient for the purpose at least a day before using it. But it must be borne in mind that this advice is not to be carried so far as the use of a wet compost, the object, being really to guard against excess of moisture, by using the sod in such a state that water may be withheld for some time after potting. The season for potting is early spring, and the plants should be repotted every season. In performing this operation, take care not to distress the plant, but proceed in the same manner as in repotting camellias, cytisuses, and other plants that make firm balls of roots; that is, turn the plant out carefully, and pick away as much of the old soil as can be removed without damaging the roots. If the same pot is used, let it be well scrubbed inside and outside, and prepare it for the plant with fresh drainage carefully arranged; over which lay some moss or fibre tern from peat. In filling in, make the new soil firm about the roots, and place a few rough supports about the plant to prevent any strain upon the roots in moving it away from the potting-bench, as it is well not to train in regularly until the plant has made a start.
To encourage this start, place the plant on a bottom-beat of 70°, give it no water for a week if the soil was reasonably moist when the plant was potted. At the end of a week, give a little water, and thenceforward increase the supplies, but cautiously, and when the plant has made a fair start, remove it from the bark bed or other source of bottom-beat, and train it for flowering.
The best plan to train a pot specimen is on a wire balloon, which is a very simple operation, the shoots being taken round and round regularly. A neat trellis may be extemporized, by inserting green sticks round the pot, over them draw a wire ring, and tie that to the sticks all round, and mid-way between the rim of the pot and the top of the sticks, and finally draw the sticks together at the top, and the them securely. The plant will soon cover the trellis, and then its blossoms are fully displayed.
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