Surf Is Where You Find It - Rilegato

Lopez, Gerry

Rilegato

ISBN 10: 1938340434 ISBN 13: 9781938340437

Casa editrice: Patagonia Inc, 2015

Riassunto

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing during that lifetimes. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle, one of the fastest growing water sports in the world, now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

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Recensione:

This new edition has more stories and photos and makes for a fine coffee table addition to any surfer’s collection. . . . Lopez creates a space for the people around him to feel good. He takes the time to reflect on what surfing has brought him in life and reminds us to take the time to do the same. Santa Cruz Sentinel

Gerry Lopez writes as beautifully as he bottom turns. Each chapter of Surf Is Where You Find It is a wave ridden or written by one of the most stylish humans to ever pick up a board or a pen. Gerry has been one of my heroes since I was a keiki and the more time I have spent with him the more my admiration of him has grown. Whether he is talking about memories of growing up bare foot during the sugar cane days of Hawai'i, wild experiences with some of the greatest characters in surfing's history, or early uncharted expeditions to the best waves in the world, every story has something the reader can take away and apply to their own life. Reading Surf Is Where You Find It made me feel proud to be a surfer again. I hope anyone who loves the ocean will read this book and be reminded of what riding waves is all about. -- Jack Johnson

There will never be another Gerry Lopez, nor a more mandatory book to have on your shelf than Surf Is Where You Find It. -- Eastern Surf Reviews

L'autore:

Gerry Lopez made his reputation at Pipeline, then went on to a lifelong career in surfing, snowboarding, and stand-up-paddle. He co-founded Lightning Bolt® Maui surfboards, was instrumental in developing the high-performance shortboard, and has appeared in many films. He lives in Bend, OR.

Rob Machado is an Australian-born American professional surfer from Cardiff-by-the-Sea, a community in Encinitas, CA.

Steve Pezman is the founder of The Surfer’s Journal and has been the editor since 1992. He lives in San Clemente, CA.

Su questa edizione

• Editore: Patagonia Inc
• Data di pubblicazione: 2015
• ISBN 10: 1938340434
• ISBN 13: 9781938340437
• Rilegatura: Copertina rigida
• Numero di pagine: 416