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Riassunto: This adventure classic captures everything from the historical to the deeply personal in a gripping account of an ambitious first ascent of the Southwest Face of Shishapangma. As Alex MacIntyre describes it, "To climb it became an ambition, but not just to climb it, we had to make the ascent with style, as light, as fast, as uncluttered as we dared, free from umbilical cords and logistics, with none of the traditional trappings of a Himalayan climb. The wall was the ambition, the style became the obsession."
Placing the expedition into a historical context, Doug Scott presents a wealth of historical detail about the region while Alex MacIntyre provides a unique commentary on the "big peak" way of life-from the frenzied preparations to the clashes of personality, the affection, and the humor.
Recensione: The avalanche deaths of climbers Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges have renewed attention to Tibet's 8,027-meter Shisha Pangma and past climbs on its sheer, glacial faces. One of the more infamous is the 1982 ascent by Alex McIntyre, Doug Scott, and Roger Baxter-Jones, who summited from the unclimbed southwest face. Open to foreign tourists for less than four years, Tibet had been hobbled by the military presence of the Chinese, and the resulting communist bureaucratic minefield proved more formidable, at times, than the mountain. For two years, Scott, McIntyre, Nick Prescott, Elaine Brook, and Paul Braithwaite struggled with paperwork and revolving regulations. Meetings with mountaineering officials in Lhasa turned into maddening nights of drinking rancid tea and arguing through interpreters. Food was scarce and frequently spoiled, the yaks issued to the team were sick, and personalities in the group clashed intensely by the time they reached base camp.
By the acclimatization climb to Nyanang Ri, at 7,071 meters, two of the original six team members were on their way out. "I'm sorry, but charity ends at 5,000 meters," McIntyre tells Nick Prescott, the least experienced of the climbers. Indeed, McIntyre is on a summit mission to be stalled by no one, and Scott, in his trademark philosophical approach to mountaineering, tries to make peace between the group's remaining members. But a second acclimatization climb on 7,445-meter Pungpa Ri hastens the division, as Scott questions his own age and lack of ice skills, while McIntyre and Baxter-Jones leave him in their frozen dust. It isn't until their summit attempt that harmony seems possible and the three set out in ideal conditions. By morning, however, Scott is coughing up blood, Baxter-Jones is vomiting his meal of rotten fish, and McIntyre, who is irrepressibly itchy to move ahead, barely dodges a falling rock (an ominous omen, as he would die from a rock strike only two months later). But the trio still manages to summit flawlessly in light alpine form, lending support to Prescott's wise summation: "Mountains are all about decisions. The climbing is the easy part."
Anyone looking for an Annapurna-style drama may be disappointed with this straightforward account told in interchanging entries by McIntyre and Scott, but readers who savor a realistic description of the misery, personal discord, and sudden catharsis that define high-altitude climbing will feel duly sated by Scott's wizened reflections and McIntyre's technical detail. --Lolly Merrell
Titolo: Shishapangma Expedition
Casa editrice: HarperCollins Publishers Ltd
Data di pubblicazione: 1984
Condizione libro: very good
Descrizione libro HarperCollins Publishers Ltd, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: Very Good. Faded spine. In VERY GOOD condition, nice and clean overall, dispatched daily from the UK Daily dispatch from UK warehouse. This book is in VERY GOOD overall condition, showing only light signs of previous ownership. Codice libro della libreria mon0002688125
Descrizione libro London, Granada, 1984; 0246120134, 1984. Hardback. Good+/ Dust jacket very good. 322 pp with illustrations & Maps. Free front endpaper pasted onto front pastedown. 1Small light library stamp. Grey covers with silver title on spine. Protected dust jacket has price intact. Codice libro della libreria 21839
Descrizione libro HarperCollins Publishers Ltd, 1984. Condizione libro: Good. N/A. Ships from the UK. Former Library book. Shows some signs of wear, and may have some markings on the inside. Codice libro della libreria GRP17478337
Descrizione libro Granda Publishing, London, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: Very Good. Condizione sovraccoperta: Very Good. First Edition. Copy in grey cloth on boards in clipped D/J. Jacket spine lightly sunned. Jacket slightly creased along edges. Coloured end papers. Free of inscriptions. Clean text with b/w plates. Size: 8vo - over 7¾" - 9¾" tall. Codice libro della libreria 028498
Descrizione libro Granada, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: Fine. Condizione sovraccoperta: Near Fine. 1st Edition. Codice libro della libreria 6640
Descrizione libro Granada, 1984. Hardback. Condizione libro: Very Good. Condizione sovraccoperta: Very Good. First edition.. 1st 1984. Slightly better than very good condition in a nearly fine dustwrapper. The story of the climb in Tibet of the south-west face of Shishapangma. B/w photos. Wrapper: corners worn [S]. Book. Codice libro della libreria 1711514
Descrizione libro Granada Publishing, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: Very Good. Condizione sovraccoperta: Very Good. First Edition. Presentable, sound, clean and tight copy in a smart, unclipped jacket. 322 pages, maps, plates, notes, bibliography, index. Approx. size 9.5" by 6". Category: Mountaineering; ISBN: 0246120134. ISBN/EAN: 9780246120137. Pictures of this item not already displayed here available upon request. Inventory No: 25533. Codice libro della libreria 25533
Descrizione libro Granada, London, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: VG. Condizione sovraccoperta: VG. The story of the 1982 expedition to climb th south west face of Shishapangma. 322 pages, illustrated throughout in black & white, maps. Front blank endpaper clipped across corner (roughly 3x4), otherwise both book and d/w in very good condition, spine of s/w sunned. Size: 9.5x6.5. Codice libro della libreria 55856
Descrizione libro Granada, London, 1984. Hardcover. Condizione libro: Very Good. Condizione sovraccoperta: Good. 1st Edition. The climb of a little known mountain in Tibet by the authors and four others in 1982.Maps, b/white illustrations.The jacket is chipped on the top edge and is repaired. Codice libro della libreria 003453
Descrizione libro Mountaineers Books, U S A, 1984. Hardback. Condizione libro: Very Good. Condizione sovraccoperta: Very Good. 1st Edition.. 322, bw illus, SIGNED dedication to Dick by Doug Scott on title page. Size: 8vo - over 7¾" - 9¾" tall. Signed by Author. Codice libro della libreria 11311