Sew & Stow: 31 Fun Sewing Projects to Carry, Hold, and Organize Your Stuff, Your Home, and Yourself! - Brossura

Oppenheimer, Betty

Brossura

ISBN 10: 1603420274 ISBN 13: 9781603420273

Casa editrice: Storey Books, 2008

Riassunto

Indulge your passion for sewing as you clear your life of clutter. Whatever your experience and wherever the mess, you can sew up a cloth sack or organizer to fit your needs. Gardening tools, groceries, shoes, toys, jewelry, and more will find new homes in these colorful and reusable handmade alternatives to mass-produced products. With Betty Oppenheimer’s easy-to-follow instructions for 31 fun and functional projects, you’ll be inspired to break out your needles and create a more organized, bright, and eco-friendly home. 

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Informazioni sull?autore

Betty Oppenheimer is an experienced crafter and seamstress who studied textile science at the Fashion Institute of Technology and has worked as textile quality assurance manager and engineer for several sportswear companies. Betty is the author of The Candlemaker's Companion and Growing Lavender and Community on the Sequim Prairie. She lives on the Olympic Penninsula in rural Washington state.

Dalla quarta di copertina

Sew bags, packs, totes, and handy items for your home and garden—make them your own with fun, contemporary fabrics. These 31 exciting projects are suitable for every skill level, from beginner to master stitcher.

Help the Planet: Say no to plastic bags and yes to colorful, reusable, hand-sewn alternatives! It’s easy to make your own bags, carry-alls, and sacks to hold everything from farmers’ market finds to bag lunches.

Brighten Your Home: Stitch up an apron or laundry bag to bring style and flair to household tasks. Add panache to your outdoor activities with a hand-sewn bottle sling or a comfy hammock. You can even make a dog bed cover for your loyal pal or a log tote for your favorite lumberjack.

Functional, fabulous, and ecofriendly—these handmade projects are quick and simple with the step-by-step instructions and illustrations in Sew & Stow.

Estratto. © Ristampato con autorizzazione. Tutti i diritti riservati.

Sew & Stow

31 Fun Sewing Projects to Carry, Hold, and Organize Your Stuff, Your Home, and Yourself!

By Betty Oppenheimer, Deborah Balmuth, Nancy D. Wood

Storey Publishing

Copyright © 2008 Betty Oppenheimer
All rights reserved.

ISBN: 978-1-60342-027-3

Contents

Preface, 
Introduction, 
1 SELECTING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT AND FABRIC, 
2 TECHNIQUES & TOOLS FOR CUTTING, SEWING, AND FINISHING, 
3 SEW SIMPLE, 
4 POCKETS GALORE!, 
5 BAG-A-THON, 
6 STOW IT HANDILY, 
7 PAD AND CARRY!, 
8 STOW IT YOUR WAY, 
Resources List, 
Index, 

CHAPTER 1

SELECTING THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT AND FABRIC

To make your sewing experience most enjoyable and your finished projects as useful as possible, you need to have the right equipment on hand and know how to select the most appropriate fabric, one that will stand up to the functions it is expected to perform. In this chapter, you'll learn everything you need to know to acquire the right materials and get set up. I suggest reading through this chapter before you begin and then returning to it as you prepare to create specific projects, particularly to learn more about the types of fabric you will need for each.

SEWING MACHINE

A special machine is not necessary to create these projects, since they do not require any fancy stitches (although you can, of course, use them for embellishment, if you wish). Since only straight stitching is used, a good basic machine is all you need.

Machine Requirements

Your machine should have forward- and reverse-stitching capabilities. The sewing in these projects often requires going through many layers of upholstery-weight fabric, which can be hard work for your machine. Therefore, a heavy-duty machine is a plus: It gives you more flexibility, allowing you to sew light-, medium-, and heavy-weight fabrics. Most machines made prior to the 1960s are considered heavy duty by today's standards.

My local sewing sales and service man estimates that the cost of purchasing a good, basic used machine is between $150 and $300; new machines range from $150 to $5,000. If you have an older machine that you've inherited or haven't used in a while, it can be brought up to speed with a tune-up service, which costs about $50 (not including parts). If properly maintained, an older machine can sew as well as a new one. Many of the new, inexpensive machines on the market are light duty; pushing them to their limit can result in broken gears and lots of time at the sewing service center. So if you are planning to buy a sewing machine and don't want to spend a lot of money, consider a reconditioned used machine instead of a new one.

In terms of the machine's accessories, you will need both a standard presser foot (the metal piece that drops down to hold the fabric in place, and helps feed it through the needle area) and a zipper foot. The zipper foot allows you to stitch much closer to raised edge or thicker areas of fabric, and is used to attach zippers and make welting, as well as to do other applications.

Tuning Up Your Machine

It is important to keep your machine properly tensioned and well oiled. If there's one thing I've learned over the years, it's the value of an annual sewing machine tune-up. If your machine hasn't been oiled and tuned for a while, have it done before you embark on these projects.

There are also several maintenance tasks you can perform at home to keep your machine functioning properly. First, be sure to store your machine in a dry place at room temperature; cold or moisture can cause the machine to malfunction. Second, guard against improper tension and excess lint, the two most common and troublesome machine problems.

Adjusting stitch tensions. Proper thread tension is critical in any sewing project, because too little or too much will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Be sure to learn how to adjust both the upper and lower tension controls. The upper tension control on your machine regulates the underside loops of stitching; the screw on the bobbin case regulates the top loops: If the stitch loops appear irregular on the underside, adjust the upper tension control; if the stitch loops appear irregular on the top surface, adjust the screw on the bobbin case.

Tension can also be thrown off by the use of poor-quality thread, which can be fuzzy and have inconsistent thickness. Be sure to buy new, mercerized, high-quality thread for use in your sewing machine; and if you have old wooden spools of thread, use them only for hand sewing.

Removing fiber lint and dirt. Lint that accumulates under the machine's needle plate (the metal plate that the needle passes through) causes the plate to rise slightly. This, in turn, throws off the mechanism that feeds your fabric into the machine. Sewing then becomes more difficult, as the motor and gears compensate for the poor fabric feeding. You can clean this area (and the rest of the bobbin case) yourself by frequently removing the needle plate and vacuuming out as much lint as you can. A lint brush with nylon bristles, or an old toothbrush works well, too.

SEWING SUPPLIES

The sewing supplies and equipment you will need to undertake the projects in this book can be found at any sewing supply store. The following are some recommendations regarding specific supplies.

Needles and Pins

Purchase high-quality sewing machine needles to fit your brand of sewing machine. You will notice that there are different needle sizes for light-, medium-, and heavy-duty fabrics. The heavy-weight fabrics used in many of these projects will require size 14, 16, or 18 needles. Keep extras on hand — you may break a needle stitching through some of the heavier fabrics. Ideally, needles should be replaced after three hours of actual sewing time.

For hand stitching, embroidery needles are best, since they are heavy and sharp. A combination pack of needles will contain most of what you'll need. However, for stitching closed a welted (piped) seam, you may want to have a curved needle.

For pins, I like to use the ones with ball heads, because they are easy to find if dropped. When working with thick fabrics, pin length is an issue; extra-long pins are best for holding thick or layered fabrics together.

Thread

Your thread choice depends on the weight and fiber content of the fabric being stitched. Standard cotton-wrapped polyester thread is recommended for medium-weight projects, and is generally a size 40-60. You can use 100 percent cotton thread, if you prefer, but make sure it is mercerized to give it the strength it needs to run at high speeds through the sewing machine. For some of the heavier cotton projects, heavy-duty, quilting, or button and carpet thread is best, as they are stronger and abrasion resistant.

For heavy nylon projects and for padded items, I recommend using nylon upholstery thread. It holds up under the pressure of your body (when used to make mattresses or kneeling pads, for example) or under the added weight of clothing or tools (which you may put in sewn containers such as a duffel bag or a carpenter's apron). Heavier threads are also necessary when sewing leather or vinyl laminates, since the abrasion caused by the needle passing in and out of the fabric wears on the thread. It is also a good idea to use heavier thread when sewing gathers, to make sure that it doesn't break as you pull the stitches to gather the fabric.

Scissors and Other Cutting Tools

A pair of sharp scissors is a must. In fact, your fabric scissors (shears) should be used exclusively for fabric. I label mine "fabric only" with a piece of masking tape so that no one accidentally uses them on paper or cardboard, which will dull their edges. With fabrics that are heavy and slippery, the only way to cut a clean, sharp line is to use sharp scissors. Professional sharpening services are available at many fabric and sewing stores.

Another tool on the market is the rotary cutting wheel, which is great for cutting straight lines and is much easier on the hands than scissors. Make sure you have a sharp blade. To cut curves, a variety of templates, including french curves, can be used as guides for the cutting blade. You'll also need a rubberized cutting mat to place under the fabric to protect your tabletops from the sharp cutting wheel. These accessories are all available at fabric and sewing stores. Spring-loaded scissors with cushioned handles (which are similar in design to some garden pruners) are another tool that causes less strain on the hands than conventional scissors.

Measuring and Marking Tools

The project patterns in this book can be drawn directly onto your fabric (see chapter 2, page 58). To do so, you will need a straightedge ruler. I use a 36-inch T-square for measuring out the long lines, and an 18-inch metal ruler for marking the more detailed points. A wide, transparent quilting rule with measured markings across the width and down the length is also handy for making incremental measurements.

I recommend always using chalk for marking the face (right side) of the fabric. Tailor's chalk, which comes in flat chunks or pencil form, works well for marking the pattern layout, although the lines drawn are often wide and may rub off as you work. To avoid problems, use the pencil form, sharpened to the finest point possible, and then handle the fabric carefully to avoid rubbing off the chalk lines.

For marking the back of the fabric or in the seam allowances, I often use a fine-line felt-tip marker or ballpoint pen. This gives a very accurate line, which will not show in the finished piece, as long as you mark only in the concealed areas of the fabric. Avoid using water-soluble inks; they can bleed through to the face of the fabric during laundering.

Iron

You will need a good basic steam iron with an adjustable temperature control. An ironing board is not essential — a table protected with a towel works just as well.

SELECTING FABRICS

Practicality is an important feature to consider when selecting the fabric and components used to make the projects in this book. A basic understanding of the materials you choose will improve your final product. If you've sewn at all, I'm sure you've had the experience of making a garment only to discover it did not meet your expectations, in terms of durability (how long it lasts), washability (how much it shrinks), abrasion resistance (how well it resists becoming fuzzy and pilled on its surface), resiliency (the ability to stretch out and spring back), tear strength (its tendency to resist ripping), or fiber content, breathability, and hand (level of wearing comfort). These characteristics can be controlled and predicted during the development and manufacture of any fabric. As a consumer, being knowledgeable about these factors can save you from choosing poor materials that, with time, render the items you have sewn useless.

The terms commonly used to describe various types of fabric often make reference to fiber content (cotton, wool, acrylic) and construction (weave or knit). There are also some age-old fabric names, such as calico, canvas, and lawn, that offer few clues as to what the fabric is actually made of. Even experienced sewers may not know as much as they'd like to about the performance characteristics of a fabric that goes by one of these "mystery" names. Fabric mills and manufacturers have specialized tests for assessing the performance characteristics of a given fabric. They evaluate fiber content, weight, thickness and hand, absorbency and breath-ability, durability, yarn size and thread count, and fabric construction and its impact on other significant qualities. You can use these same factors to analyze and define the makeup of a particular piece of fabric.

Fiber Content

Fabrics are made of various kinds of fibers, some natural, some synthetic. Each fiber has its own set of characteristics, including benefits and drawbacks (see the chart on this page). When fibers are combined to make fabric, these characteristics are present in the finished product. For many of the projects in this book, cotton and nylon are the most logical fabric choices: Cotton is generally used for items that you want to be soft or decorative, and nylon is for rugged outdoor use. There is no reason to limit yourself to cotton and nylon, however. Read the chart for other possible options.

Weight

In the industry, fabrics are referred to by the number of ounces in a square yard (36 × 36") or in a linear yard (36" length × the width of the cloth). Weight per square yard is the most accurate and useful method for comparing fabrics. For example, most jeans are made of 14-ounce denim (i.e., there are 14 ounces in a square yard). From experience, we know that this is a heavy and durable weight of cloth that holds up well to wear. Based on this knowledge, you might use a 14-ounce canvas for many of the heavier-duty projects in this book. (See the chart on page 51 for common fabric names by weight and weave.)

Thickness and Hand

These are qualities you will need to assess to determine whether a particular fabric meets the expectations for the intended project. When assessing fabric thickness, you will need to take into account the total number of fabric layers in the completed project: Will your machine be able to stitch through this thickness? Will the resulting seam be too thick? When evaluating the hand, or feel, of a fabric, you should base your decision on personal preference and perception of how you would like the finished item to feel. Is the fabric soft? Sticky? Does it appear to have a surface finish on the face or on the back? How will this finish affect the usefulness of your project?

Absorbency and Breathability

These two characteristics are very important to consider when selecting a functional fabric. Fabrics with good absorbency and breathability make very comfortable outdoor clothing, since they wick moisture away from your body, where it can then evaporate. For outdoor gear, however, absorbency can be a real problem. On a humid day, for example, an absorbent gear bag can become damp, mildew, and get very heavy just from the weight of the moisture. Select fabrics that fit the function of the item: The difference between a water-absorbent fabric and a water-repellent one really matters when making something that might be used out in the rain.

Durability

The durability of a particular fabric is determined by fiber, yarn, weave, and finish. Some predictions regarding durability can be made about a particular fabric by pulling on it lengthwise, widthwise, and diagonally (on the bias), to test its stability and stretch, and by scratching the fabric's surface to see whether it mars easily or shows signs of wear. Try pulling out yarns in both directions to see if the fabric has a tendency to fray. Run your thumbnail across the yarns to see whether the weave slips along the seamlines in the warp or weft direction. Look for floats (long spans of yarn "floated" across the fabric surface before being woven back in; usually decorative), which can snag on hook and loop (Velcro) or fingernails. Fabrics with surface finishes are often more durable; however, some finishes abrade easily and may wash off. Therefore, take into account how often the item will be laundered before choosing a finished fabric.

Yarn Size and Thread Count

In the textile industry, fabric construction is assessed in terms of the size of the yarn used to make the fabric, and how many yarns per inch are woven into the fabric. Yarn size is based on the weight of the yarn. The number of yarns per inch in the resulting fabric is known as the thread count. A fabric composed of strands of densely woven yarn is quite different from one made from thick yarns woven more loosely, yet it is possible for both fabrics to have the same weight.

Other Significant Fabric Characteristics

There are several specialty fabrics that have been constructed or treated to add certain attributes. A basic understanding of the water and fire treatments on the next page can come in handy.

Water resistance. Water resistance can be achieved by applying a finish, or may be a part of the fiber or fabric's makeup. Wool and many synthetic fibers have a natural ability to resist absorbing water. Water-resistant fabrics offer the least protection against water; for outdoor use a heavier finish is required.

Water repellency. This is a finish achieved by coating the surface of the fabric, using waxes, resins, or various combinations of chemicals. Since the pores of the fabric are not sealed during this process, the fabric still breathes (allows air to pass through), and thus tends to be comfortable to wear. Water-repellent fabrics are rated on a scale from spot resistant to shower-proof; they are not waterproof. Bear in mind that surface finishes do not waterproof seams — you will need to treat seams with a seam sealer.

Waterproofing. This finish seals the pores of the fabric with chemicals or coats the fabric entirely with a compound such as vinyl, thus preventing water penetration. Waterproof fabrics are not the best choice to use for clothes, but work well for many of the projects in this book.

Recent developments in fiber and fabric technology have yielded products such as Gore-Tex, which has breathable pores that are too small for water molecules to penetrate. Thus, it is a physically waterproof fabric that still allows the skin to breathe.

(Continues...)

Excerpted from Sew & Stow by Betty Oppenheimer, Deborah Balmuth, Nancy D. Wood. Copyright © 2008 Betty Oppenheimer. Excerpted by permission of Storey Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Dettagli dell?edizione

• Editore: Storey Books
• Data di pubblicazione: 2008
• ISBN 10: 1603420274
• ISBN 13: 9781603420273
• Rilegatura: Copertina flessibile
• Lingua: Inglese
• Numero di pagine: 191
• Contatto del produttore: non disponibile