CHAPTER 1

Linen: A Tradition

Why linen? Why not use some of the new, easy care, "miracle" fabrics for ourfair linens, purificators, palls, and corporals? Is there a reason to use linen?

A reason, yes. A rule or requirement, no.

The reason is simple: our desire to use the finest, most beautiful materialsavailable at God's altar. Beauty is not necessary. Beauty is not always evenefficient. When we prepare God's altar, we are beyond the category of necessaryand efficient. We do all for the utter joy of serving our Lord.

We are in error when we call the man-made fabrics "miracle fabrics." The truemiracle fabrics were made by God Himself. They are wool, cotton, silk—andlinen. In recent years some parishes have turned to the easy care, man-madefabrics for use on the altar. They are finding that these fabrics stretch out ofshape, are not absorbent, hold stains and, oddly, hold wrinkles, too. The lowercost of these fabrics is proving to be money ill spent.

Linen is a joy to use and to behold. Linen launders superbly. Few things cancompare with a beautifully laundered and ironed fair linen. Always rinse theholy linens before laundering. It is traditional to pour this first rinse waterdown the piscina or onto the ground. A moment's reflection on the fact thatthese wine stains are the precious Blood of Jesus will speak to the reason.

Can we use materials other than linen on the altar? We can, as the rubric onpage 406 of our Book of Common Prayer states, "... a clean white cloth."

Scripture says, "Joseph took the body and wrapped it in a clean linen cloth"(Matthew 27:59; see also John 19:40, Luke 23:53, Mark 15:46). Our Lord's bodywas wrapped in linen before it was placed in the sepulcher and all our holylinens remind us of this when we use them. Linen is the traditional fabric usedat the altar. It is beautiful and its history is deep in the Scriptures. Let usgive God's altar the best, the finest in whatever is used on it and in theloving service that we render our Precious Savior.

Adapted from an article by Marty Thompson of St. Patrick's Church inAtlanta, which came to me by way of Florence Joseph, who has served as adirectress also.

CHAPTER 2

The Holy Linens

I am a Christian of the Episcopal denomination, which means, in the context ofthis book, that I will be writing about the linens used in the Episcopalchurches. Other denominations have different linens and give them differentnames: Methodists call our fair linen a communion cloth, Roman Catholics shapetheir purificators differently and call the equivalent of our altar guilds,rosary societies. Whatever the size, shape, or name, the techniques used inconstructing these linens remain the same.

The church linens are not in themselves holy. They are holy by virtue of thepurpose they serve. The holy linens are those that come in contact with theconsecrated elements—the Body and Blood of our Savior, Jesus, who is theChrist.

Many books and pamphlets give standard sizes for the linens. I don't think wecan establish standard sizes. Corporals, purifications, and chalice veils shouldbe sized according to the size of the altar and chalice. Some priests preferlarger lavabo towels than others. These decisions can be based upon the needsand tastes of your own church. I would suggest, however, that you make adecision and stick with it. Many sacristies are plagued by "mystery linens."Mystery linens are the ones that appear this week as purificators and next weekas corporals because their size and/or embroidery is ambiguous.

The purificator is used to wipe the edge of the chalice as theconsecrated wine is being administered. Roman Catholic purificators arerectangular. In Episcopal churches the purificator is square and is folded inthirds twice.

The lavabo towel is used to dry the hands of the priest prior tothe consecration of the elements. The lavabo towel is rectangular and sometimesserves double duty as a baptismal towel. It is folded in thirds and then inhalf.

The corporal is placed underneath the vessels containing thehost and wine during consecration. Its purpose is to catch and contain any bitsof the host so that they may be disposed of properly. (This is done by emptyingthem into the piscina or by taking the corporal out of doors and shaking thecrumbs on the ground.)

The folding of corporals is an issue. I cannot tell you how often I have beenasked by clergy to teach the altar guild how to fold corporals properly. It mayappear fussy, but folding the corporal properly is important.

When our clergy celebrate communion, they not only prepare for us the holyfeast, they are also in prayer. We must do all we can to support them duringthis time. A corporal that must be adjusted because it is upside down or wrongside up is not merely ungraceful and an inconvenience, it is disruptive to theworship of the priest. I have given a simple method for folding corporals in thechapter on Washing, Ironing, and Folding. It will be appreciated by every deaconand priest.

The chalice veil is a post-communion cover for the chalice usedin place of burse and veil. Following the ablutions, the purificator is placedin (or on) the chalice, the paten (if used) is placed on top, and the pall islaid on top of the paten. The chalice veil then is laid over the top.

Although the use of a post-communion chalice veil is a time-honored tradition,we haven't seen much of it in recent years because it was supplanted by the useof burse and veil.

The burse and veil are processional vestments. They form a portable package inwhich the eucharistic vessels and elements can be brought to the altar inprocession. As it becomes less common to process the vessels and elements,parishes are returning to the use of chalice veils.

I am not aware of any formal traditions attached to the use of the chalice veil.For instance: is it used only to cover vessels left on the altar, or may it beused to cover vessels placed on the credence table? As neither Leviticus norDeuteronomy speaks to this question, the answer must be "whatever is reasonableand proper." My own sense would be that a chalice veil may be used to covervessels when they are left on the altar but not when they are removed from thealtar to the credence table.

As with corporals, the folding process should result in decorum rather thanchaos. Lay the ironed chalice veil right side up, the cross away from you. Folddown the top third. Fold up the bottom third. Fold in the right-hand third. Foldin the left-hand third. This creates the appearance of a book.

When the first two folds are opened, the priest/deacon needs only to lift up thehem. The veil will open correctly to be laid neatly over the chalice with aminimum of fuss.

The pall is a square cover for the chalice made of lightweightPlexiglas covered with linen. Its original purpose was to keep unwanted litterout of the chalice. It also serves as a surface to support the burse (if one isused) or the corporal (if it isn't).

The credence cloth is the cloth that is placed on the credencetable on which the vessels are kept before they are put on the altar for theEucharist service.

The fair linen is the covering for the altar and is symbolic ofthe linen cloth in which the body of our Lord was wrapped when he was taken fromhis cross and placed in the tomb. From this comes the stress upon the use oflinen for the holy linens. The word "fair" in this context means "lovely."

CHAPTER 3

Materials and Equipment

Fabric: Both cotton and synthetic/cotton blends are used to constructchurch linens. And, in some cases they are appropriate: in hot, humid areaswhere mildew is a serious problem or in parishes that have no one to care forlinen. I have placed in the beginning of this book a statement about linen thatI enjoy and agree with. If you feel as strongly as I do about the use of linen,you will enjoy it also.

Because of the high cost of new linen fabric, many of our churches have beenmaking new small linens out of worn large linens. Although this is acceptable,it is not desirable. Putting time into fabric that is already partially worn isnot good stewardship. Our time, efforts, and talents are of great value. Newlinen is preferable, especially now that it is available at reasonable prices.Please write for information. (See the Sources and Resources.)

Holy linens may not have had a previous existence as table linens, bedsheets, or handkerchiefs.

When disposing of old linens, save the embroidery. These handsome oldembroideries can be framed and given as gifts or used to decorate church walls.Be sure that the scraps are properly disposed of; burning is recommended.

Linen: Three characteristics come into play in choosing linen for churchuse: quality, weight, and density.

Quality is judged by the even-ness of threads and weave.

Weight is measured in ounces per square yard.

Density is determined by the number of threads per square inch.

We sell high-quality linen in three weights and densities:

Our lightweight linen is suitable for both small linens and fair linens. It has141 threads per square inch and weighs 4.4 ounces per square yard.

Our batiste linen is suitable for small linens and especially for chalice veils.It has 136 threads per square inch and weighs 3.1 ounces per square yard.

Our heavyweight linen is suitable for fair linens (although I prefer thelightweight). It has 119 threads per square inch and weighs 4.6 ounces persquare yard.

When acquiring linen for church use, ask for the weight and densitynumbers—it is difficult to detect differences in weight and density whenlooking at samples. You can easily see even-ness of thread and weave.

Measuring Equipment: The usual—ruler and yardstick. Forfair linens, a four-foot rule and builder's square. Since the publishing of thefirst edition, I have invented a special ruler designed to make quick work oflaying out small linen hems. It's called the "Golden Ruler" and you can order itfrom me. Members of the quilting community can achieve much the same thing witha 24-inch quilting ruler.

You will also need a creasing instrument (which comes with your Golden Ruleralong with full instructions). You can purchase one made of bamboo or you canuse any instrument with a smooth, blunt edge such as a butter knife or therounded point of a medium-sized crochet hook. (See the chapter on Folding theHem.)

Magnifier: A swing-arm lamp with a magnifying glass can bepurchased for twenty to thirty dollars, and is worth it.

Neither starch nor size is used on the finished linens.

Construction marks: This is a problem. There are lots of productsout there and none work as well as a soft lead pencil. The marks wash out fairlyreadily but will stain if left too long. Marks should be as small and as lightas possible. Avoid the pens that contain disappearing ink or ink that rinsesout; the marks come back and are stubborn. These marks (and some other stains)may be removed by soaking the cloth in a solution of one teaspoon cream oftartar to one quart of water. Bring the solution to a boil, turn off the heat,soak the linen until cool, rinse, and wash.

Needles: Needles are described by a number and a name. Thenumber is related to the diameter of the needle: the larger the number, the moreslender the needle will be.

The length and character of the needle are described by its name. There arethree types of needles suitable for sewing church linens: betweens, sharps, andembroidery (or crewels). Number ten betweens, sharps, and embroidery needleswill all be the same diameter but they will look different. Betweens are shortand this makes them stronger and less likely to bend. They are the types ofneedle used by quilters. Sharps are longer and not so strong. A slender sharpwill bend easily. An embroidery needle is also longer than a between and has alarge eye.

Which type of needle you choose will be a matter of your own skill, preference,and the weight of your material. One person will prefer to work a heavier weightfabric with a number ten between, and another would choose a number eight sharp.I recommend that anyone who has difficulty threading a small eye use embroideryneedles for all their sewing. I think a number ten embroidery is a great all-around needle. You will find a favorite that suits you.

Pins: Although there are many types of pins, pin manufacturersaren't as well organized as needle manufacturers. I do not know of amanufacturer that has managed to standardize its entire line of pins, let aloneany sort of an industry standard.

I use two types of pins. My utility pins have yellow glass heads. The packagesays they are 0.6 mm in diameter. My light pins are considerably slimmer than myutility pins. While the package doesn't give the diameter, my guess is 0.4 mm.They have white glass heads (although I have seen them with multi-color heads).

When straight hems are the goal, thick pins that distort the line of the hem areto be avoided. Pins need to be strong enough to do the work without bending, yetslim enough to hold without distorting the work. It's a nice bit of balancing.

Thread: Cotton thread used to come in number 100, number 120,and even number 140. This type of thread is extremely difficult to locate now.Pat Crane, diocesan directress (emeritus) of Connecticut, brought to myattention Coats machine embroidery thread (lightweight, Dual Duty Plus).Although this is a cotton-wrapped polyester (and therefore heretical), it isalso number 100, of extremely high quality, and strong.

My quilting days left me with a few tips about threading fine needles. Threadwill enter the eye of a tiny needle more readily if it is cut diagonally. Threadwill be less likely to twist and knot if the end that came off the spool last isthe one that is secured. Also, cut your thread quite short—eighteeninches; because the stitches you will be taking are small, you will be takingmany more of them and the thread wears more quickly.

Beeswax: Rubbed on the length of your sewing thread, beeswaxwill cut down on wear and tear on the thread as it is drawn through the linenfabric. I used to be quite enthusiastic about beeswax.

Thimble: Learn to use a thimble if you haven't already. Thosetiny needles are very sharp even at the dull end. A thimble makes sense.Learning to use a thimble can be a funny business. No matter which finger youput the thimble on, it seems your hand wants to push the needle with a differentfinger! If you can't convince your hand that this is for its own good, purchasetwo thimbles and put one on each of your "thimble fingers." Your hand will thenbe forced to decide which finger it wants to use. When it has decided, take theother thimble off. I have a friend who needed to resort to three thimbles.

Scissors: Naturally, scissors should be very sharp. You willneed at least two pairs: one to cut fabric, one to use in sewing. It is helpfulif the sewing scissors have sharp, precise points for getting into small places.

Embroidery floss and floche: Embroidery floss is readilyavailable at both craft and department stores. The DMC brand is excellentbecause it has been mercerized—it will not shrink. Embroidery flosscommonly comes in a small skein. The skein is meant to be separated into singleor multiple strands. A frequent embroidery error is the use of too many strands,which gives a heavy, awkward look. A good rule of thumb is to use a singlestrand for small linens, two strands for medium-sized linens, and three strandsfor large linens.

Floche is another embroidery thread that is especially good for satin stitch. Iuse it only for satin stitch.

Book of embroidery stitches: Embroidery is an integral part ofsewing church linens, and we all ought to have a book of the basic embroiderystitches. Because small, inexpensive booklets of embroidery stitches are readilyavailable, I do not include any stitch diagrams in my section on embroidery. Ifyou haven't one, go and get one.

If you have problems locating any of these items, please write and I can helpyou find them.

Worktable: My worktable is a 4' x 8' sheet of half-inch plywoodpadded with cotton quilt batting. Using a heavy-duty stapler, cover the battingwith 60-inch-width cotton duck. I cover the duck with cotton sheets that can bewashed as necessary. I have set my worktable on an assortment of bureaus andbookcases that I have shimmed to a height of about 33 inches.

Because the sewing room at St. Luke's in Saranac Lake does double duty as aSunday school room, the worktable is set on a regular church table with thisclever innovation: a carpenter has constructed wooden "boots" for each tableleg. This raises the level of the work surface to 33 inches. When the worktableis not in use, it stands against a wall.

If you are going to work with linen yardage (ours is 72 inches wide) and/ordecide to make vestments too, you should have a worktable. I used my linoleumfloor as a worktable for quite a number of years. I don't recommend it. Inaddition, if you have been ironing fair linens on an ironing board, you willlove ironing them on a worktable. In fact, I have been known to iron three fairlinens at once on my worktable!

CHAPTER 4

Preparing the Linen for Cutting

Making holy linens involves three steps: preparation, construction, andembroidering. It is not mandatory that one person do it all. It is a greatblessing to have one person who is good at preparation, another who enjoys theconstruction, and another who loves to do the embroidery.

Traditionally, preparing linens for sewing involved shrinking and drawingthreads.

Purchased linen is not preshrunk. Linen shrinks a lot! And it shrinks adifferent amount across its width than it does along its length. You must takethe shrinkage factor into consideration. When you buy linen yardage, ask for theshrinkage factors. If you don't know the shrinkage factors (for width andlength) of the linen you are using, allow 10 percent. When you buy linen yardagefrom us, we will give you the shrinkage factors if you ask.

Traditionally, linen is shrunk by washing it in hot water, rinsing it in coldwater, and drying it in the dryer. This is done twice. It is a good idea tobaste up one-half inch of the raw edges to control the fraying that will occur.This may be done quickly by machine. Iron the linen (see the section onironing).

New linen contains both size and bluing. After the first washing, the linen willlook a little less white. I like to wash my linen using a product called "Tidewith Bleach."