Portuguese Homestyle Cooking - Brossura

Ortins, Ana Patuleia

 
9781566564083: Portuguese Homestyle Cooking

Sinossi

Everyone loves Mediterranean food. But few can say what makes the soul-comforting, understated peasant food of Portugal distinct from that of its neighbors. The abundant use of legumes and leafy greens in its hearty soups and stews? The unusual combinations of meat and shellfish? The wine and garlic marinated braises? The easy seafood preparations? Or, perhaps, the luscious, egg-sweet desserts, from light meringue puddings to rich, sweet breads? Peppered with a lifetime of anecdotes from a passionate cook’s years in a Portuguese culture, Portuguese Homestyle Cooking draws us into an immigrant kitchen where traditional culinary methods were handed down from father to daughter, shared and refined with the help of the family and friends who watched, chopped, and tasted. The recipes in Portuguese Homestyle Cooking are of dishes prepared as they were in Portugal—but with the measurements standardized and perfected and the commonly used ingredients and methods fully explained. Novices and experienced chefs alike will enjoy preparing these savory dishes.

Le informazioni nella sezione "Riassunto" possono far riferimento a edizioni diverse di questo titolo.

Informazioni sull?autore

A first generation descendant of Portuguese immigrants from the Alto Alentejo region of Portugal, Ana Patuleia Ortins grew up with the ethnic lore and traditions attached to the food of her ancestors. She holds a degree in culinary arts and teaches Portuguese cooking in her own kitchen and at local colleges.

Estratto. © Ristampato con autorizzazione. Tutti i diritti riservati.

Portuguese Homestyle Cooking

By Ana Patuleia Ortins

Interlink Publishing Group

Copyright © 2002 Ana Patuleia Ortins
All right reserved.

ISBN: 9781566564083


Chapter One


Soups


Vegetable Soup

Sopa de Legumes

Serves 6


    Sopa de legumes, nicknamed simply Portuguese soup or sopa à Portuguesa, by Portuguese-Americans, is one ofthe more popular soups served in our homes. This version is that of my friend Isaura Nogueira, who includes porkribs with carrots, green beans, white kidney beans, cabbage, and kale. The ribs add depth of flavor while thecombination of vegetables deliver full texture to this nutritious soup. This soup can be easily transformed into acholesterol-free vegetarian dish by omitting the pork and adding an extra tablespoon of olive oil to the pot.


Day ahead:

1/2 pound (1 1/4 cups) dried white kidney beans
I pound meaty pork ribs
2 tablespoons coarse salt


1. Soak the beans overnight in enough water tocover by 2 inches, about 4 cups.

2. Rub the pork ribs with the salt, cover, andrefrigerate.


Next day, for the broth:

12 cups water
2 medium starchy potatoes, peeled and cut into
1-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1 medium carrot (6 to 7 inches long), peeled, and
roughly chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 medium very ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and
coarsely chopped (about 1 cup)


1. Wipe excess salt from the meat and place in a 5-quartstockpot. Drain and rinse the beans. Add to thepot with the 12 cups of fresh water, potatoes, carrot,and tomatoes. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Reduce the heat and simmer for approximately 40minutes or until the vegetables are very tender andthe meat is nearly falling off the bones.

3. Remove the pork ribs to a platter, cover, and setaside in a warm place. Using a food mill, purée thevegetables with the broth to a smooth consistency.


For the soup:

3/4 pound fresh flat-leaf kale or collard greens,
rinsed, trimmed of thick middle rib, and
coarsely chopped (about 4 cups) (page 8)

3 cups coarsely chopped Savoy cabbage

1/2 pound green beans, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
(about 2 cups)
1 large onion, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 cup pasta (such as elbow macaroni)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon coarse salt or to taste
1/8 teaspoon black pepper


1. Bring the puréed broth to a boil over medium-highheat. Add the kale, cabbage, green beans,onion, carrot, pasta, olive oil, salt, and pepper.Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and gentlysimmer for about 15 minutes, until the vegetablesare tender and the pasta is cooked.

2. Remove the meat from the bones, cut intoserving-size pieces, and serve on the side. Provideplenty of crusty country bread to dip in the broth.


Note: The meat can also be returned to the potinstead of being served on the side.


Chapter Two


VEGETABLES & GRAINS


Rice with Chicken

Arroz de Frango

Serves 4 to 6


    "Use a combination of green, red, and orange bell peppers for a colorful effect," suggests Maria FernandesBettencourt. She added that this rice, richly flavored with chicken, can also be served nicely on a buffet table.


3 chicken thighs
3 cups water
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 small very ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and
coarsely chopped (about 1/4 cup) or 1 teaspoon
tomato paste
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon coarse salt or to taste
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup long-grain or converted rice
1 green, yellow, or red pepper, cored, seeded, and
cut into 1/2-inch pieces


1. Put the chicken in a 2 1/2-quart pot with the waterand place over medium-high heat. Cover andbring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium- lowand simmer until the chicken is tender, about 30minutes. Reserving the cooking liquid, remove thechicken. Bone the meat and cut into 1/2-inchchunks and set aside. Discard the bones.

2. In a separate 2 1/2-quart pan, heat the oil overmedium-high heat and sauté the onions until softand lightly colored.

3. Reduce the heat, then add the tomatoes ortomato paste, garlic, and bay leaf. Cover andsimmer until the tomatoes are very soft andpartially dissolved, about 15 minutes.

4. Pour in 2 cups of the reserved cooking water, saltand pepper. Stir and cover. Bring to a boil, add therice, then simmer for 15 minutes. Add the choppedpepper and continue cooking until rice is tenderand liquid is absorbed (about 10 minutes more).


When we were young, we made frequent Sunday trips to the beach. It was like going onSafari?Portuguese-style. First, Titi (Aunt Ana) made her Buttered Rice (page 145) andpan-fried rump steaks covered in natural juices and enriched with butter (page 120). Thenwe loaded my uncle's station wagon with the playpen, folding chairs, towels, beach toys, and allkinds of essential gear. Then everyone?grandparents, aunt and uncle, cousins, brothers, and I?piledin. Once there, we would find our favorite spot under a shade tree that bordered the sand. Wespread the blanket, opened the playpen, unfolded the chairs for my grandparents, and prepared toeat the wonderful picnic lunch my aunt had made. The rest of the afternoon would be ours to enjoythe sand and water.


Chapter Three


SWEETS


Ideal Dessert

Sobremesa Ideal

Serves 8 to 10


The people from the island of São Miguel have their own special meringue dessert. This lemon-flavored pudding, which floats in a caramel sauce topped with airy meringue, is a specialty brought from her homeland by Maria Coimbra, who made sweet bread in my father's bakery.


Caramel sauce:

1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup water


1. Place the sugar and water in a 1 1/2-quartsaucepan and stir well. Without stirring, warmover medium-low heat until the sugar dissolvesand becomes a rich golden color, about 10 to 15minutes. Quickly pour the caramel sauce into a9 x 13-inch ovenproof serving dish, tilting it backand forth to coat as much of the bottom as you can.Don't worry if it doesn't cover completely.


Pudding:

4 egg yolks, room temperature
3 tablespoons sugar
peel of 1 lemon, without the pith, in large pieces
14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1 quart whole milk


Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.


1. Place the egg yolks, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and thelemon peel in a heavy-bottomed 2 1/2-quart saucepan.Using a wooden spoon, stir in the condensed milkand cornstarch, mixing thoroughly. While stirring,gradually pour in the milk.

2. Heat the ingredients, stirring constantly, overmedium-low heat until the pudding starts tobubble, about 20 to 25 minutes. The pudding willhave thickened enough for a spoon to leave a swirlwhen it is drawn through it. (Don't leave thispudding to simmer without constantly stirring anddon't rush it by raising the heat because it can easilyburn.) Remove the lemon peel and pour thepudding into the serving dish over the cooledcaramelized sugar, spreading evenly.


Topping:

4 egg whites, room temperature
7 tablespoons sugar


1. Beat the egg whites in a small bowl andgradually add the 7 tablespoons of sugar until verystiff peaks are formed. Spread evenly over thepudding layer, pulling up little peaks with the tinesof a fork. Bake in the preheated oven until thepeaks start to turn golden, about 15 to 20 minutes.Cool gradually at room temperature before chillingwell. Serve this treat with a glass of port wine.

Continues...

Excerpted from Portuguese Homestyle Cookingby Ana Patuleia Ortins Copyright © 2002 by Ana Patuleia Ortins. Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Le informazioni nella sezione "Su questo libro" possono far riferimento a edizioni diverse di questo titolo.

Altre edizioni note dello stesso titolo